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2017 IFF Speed Smelling™ Post Modern Collection Sampler Coffret - Set of Fourteen 1/2ml Samples

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Perfume Description

  • Fanny BalAmber became its own olfactive reference from the start of the 20th century. Since then it has taken the form of a mythical accord formed around a duo of vanilla and labdanum. Fanny Bal looked into the formulas of these old historic bases, to void them of their outdated aspects, while preserving their original beauty. She imagined how to incorporate an Ambre 2017 base in a fragrance and created a gourmand interpretation, glazed with Nutella. An amber laid bare. Of the original illustrious accord only its key components were kept. This new composition features ciste - a small Mediterranean resinous tree, which yields labdanum and which in its absolute form evokes incense. The ciste is reinforced by a modern amber note, ambroxan, as well as vanillin. To summon the beauty of nature, LMR (IFF's in-house naturals facility, Laboratoire Monique Remy) CO2 vanilla bean extract was also added, bring a vegetal and mouthwatering leather aspect. Then comes the revolution: the original heady ylang is replaced by a lighter jasmine. Pink berries are replaced by the spice coriander seed. In the base, Indonesian patchouli MD (molecular distillation) LMR, Haitian vetiver MD LMR and white sandalwood are combined to form a sturdy woody-chypre architecture which is contrasted with cocoa absolute MD LMR, the origin of the unexpected Nutella effect. Amber is newly adorned.
  • Nicolas BeaulieuAt the heart of this modernization endeavor is a base created by IFF in the last century called Epicene Gamma. Although it was originally considered unisex, in the 1980s it acquired a masculine identity since it was a key success factor in many major men's fragrances. Epicene Gamma is spicy, leathery and also slightly green. In his interpretation, Nicolas Beaulieu amplified this contrast by playing a fresh spice card, which is a recurring demand for masculine fragrances. In the heart of the fragrance nutmeg and clary sage - LMR quality - are preserved, keeping in line with the original composition. Modifications mainly take place in the base, ridding it of its slightly old-fashioned nitromusks, and making room for a cocktail of modern musks such as Ambertonic and Sinfonide from IFF laboratories. Isolbutyl quinoline with its leathery and green pepper notes, is replaced by an accord which fuses the grand new Saffiano - evoking distressed leather - and the aromatic natural lentisque. Eugenol, famous for its dated clove effect, is updated by Madagascar LMR black pepper. 
  • Alexis DadierThis approach is halfway between cut and paste, playing to both postmodernism and sustainable development, since no new resources was involved. The perfume oils used in this creation are all recycled materials redirected towards a new formula. This perfume was born from the juxtaposition of four accords conceived by the perfumer before this project began. The novelty of the perfume lies in their surprising alchemy. The first piece of the puzzle; almond milk built around a bitter almond essence. Second piece: a Genmaicha tea which faithfully suggests rice crispies in green tea leaves, consisting of sesame absolute and mate absolute among other things. Third piece: conjures up rough hemp, a vegetable fabric comprised of MHR Tunisia rosemary, LMR patchouli, LMR lentisque, and LMR hay absolute. Fourth piece: a masculine fougere accord. What am I? A vegan milk, chic and urban, comfortable and reassuring like all healthy and organic foods. Innovating by returning to our roots and using preserved resources.
  • Loc DongGluttony, greed, envy, sloth, lust, pride, wrath: it only takes a rapid soul-searching to see that the seven cardinal sins are easy to find in perfumery throughout its history to the present day. Loc Dong has created a concentrate of the sins of his craft and his industry. Each ingredient reflects a fault, or an abuse, observed here with a lenient smile. The aim is not to judge, but to have a collective laugh. And because the seven deadly sins were often a source of inspiration in art, this is about recycling and rerouting historical olfactory trends, in a particularly post-modern way. Each ingredient embodies one of the seven deadly sins. Gluttony - veltol overdose - supposed to snatch our youth-longing silly hearts. Sloth is represented by tobacco leaves absolute - the latest taboo. Lust is expressed through a promiscuous woman turned flower: tuberose, in its LMR absolute. Pride manifests itself as an excess of dihydromyrcenol, the molecule which stands for "oh-you-smell-so-clean-have-you-smelled-this- yes-thank-you-that's-enough", hygiene 80s style. Cosmofruit embodies modern envy, this Holy Grail of innovation that everyone chases. Wrath - a galbanum essence conveys fanaticism for an all-natural-life-style, igniting the fury of perfumers careful for their precious chemistry not be cast away. The only one left is Greed and this is what the IFF literature says: Last but not least, sin of all sins, the carnival of story-telling which sometimes has the perfumer read out absurd poetry, personified here by a mermaid absolute, 100% natural, handmade by Icelandic fishermen in a volcanic cloud. (Perhaps something was lost in the translation?)
  • Caroline DumurAnatomy of a carnation. Traditional formulation tells us that carnation appears when rose and eugenol come together. To that you must add solar components such as ylang and orris to powder up. In this new carnation only the highest qualities are used: LMR Turkish rose absolute orris concrete LMR and LMR ylang extra. But under the pressure of modernity, eugenol is replaced by a cocktail of LMR Madagascar black pepper and LMR pink pepper CO2. To complete this delicate makeover, C12 aldehydes crown the flowered head, bringing a rising and burning impression, akin to incense, the ancestor of all perfumes. Carnation is thus renewed as well as transgendered - the flower has become more masculine. Undeniably the carnal flesh and skin are summoned by this flower, this "in-carnation".
  • Anne FlipoBack when she was 20, Anne Flipo had a kind of love-struck crush on a base which made her heart go wild - Arbrensa. It was an ambery, woody, oakmossy inspiration, owed in no small part to a synthetic molecule called Veramoss. She detached all the components of the initial formula to reorganize them and change a few pieces. Arbrensa is composed of three distinct but intertwined blocks: the first one is creamy, the second one ambery, the last woody. For the cream, she played with lactones with tonalities of milky tonka bean. Labdanum resinoid MD LMR brings the classical ambery notes, while Trimofix moves ambers towards woods. Healingwood LMR, the pure heart of patchouli, carries the composition towards a slightly moist chypre, confirmed by the woody and fresh presence of the aptly-named Coolwood, a brand new IFF captive molecule. A solid base for a powerful fragrance which is rendered addictive through its excessive character.
  • Jean-Christophe HeraultOver the past few decades, the perfumer's palette has seen many changes. It has encountered elimination of mostly animalic natural ingredients and additions of new chemical ingredients or natural ingredients bred from the prolific research in both areas. Recent ingredients sometimes compensate for the disappearance of old ones. Jean-Christophe Herault regrets the loss of phenolic notes - those distressed, horse-stable leather notes, which gave such cachet to a composition. He set about recreating them in an old aged rum accord, matured in whiskey barrels. The reinvention is also that of what gourmandise stands for - a territory often associated with veltol, not used here - embodied by a spirituous chypre. The rum accord at the heart of this composition recreates a likeness to whiskey. The temptation begins with a mouth-watering rum absolute enriched with spicy caramel notes. It is amplified by fruity essences of nova orange and mandarine with a combined effect that is reminiscent of Grand Marnier. LMR davana essence brings a finishing touch to the liquor bouquet with its cherry notes. The woody aspect is inspired by a guaiac essence and the slightly leathery tones of LMR Haitian vetiver. Patchouli imparts the perfume's chypre structure. This fragrance brings together the distillation methods of perfumery and distillery. Two fields long-intermingled, with perfume being drunk up until the time of Napoleon the 1st. A reinvented and mouth-watering gourmandise. 
  • Bruno JovanovicIt's a fur collar, overloaded with musk, worn by a woman from the past. This olfactory image was found by Bruno Jovanovic in a base created by IFF a long time ago, Tonquitone. Created to evoke Tonkin musk - a musk now eliminated from the perfumer's palette because of its now protected animal origin - this base brings together the animal note and the femininity. Through synthetic musks, recently invented molecules and vegetal musks, the perfumer reinterprets this historical composition to conjure a fur without hunting down endangered species. Its imprint is brought back to life in the form of a Bellanone accord, a captive molecule developed by IFF, as beautiful as a skin musk, and LMR ambrette seed absolute, the only original musk of vegetal origin. Ambrette, which belongs to the hibiscus family, dispenses in its seeds, the full animality of a sexual flower. A note of cognac plays a part in this enveloping fur accord. It is sharply contrasted with a breath of fresh, ocean-like molecule: Maritima which calls to mind saline crystals caught in fur. The animal is back and one could say it's rather feminine.
  • Juliette KaragueuzoglouPerfume and music were the favored channels of communication with the gods. Juliette Karagueuzoglou worked with incense and myrrh to satisfy the gourmand nostrils of today's perfume wearers. If our appetite was oriental before, its now leaning towards sweet. Karagueuzoglou added LMR cacao absolute MD and coconut water, an LMR olibanum heart, cleared of its antique dust, and in the drydown, a cocktail of modern musks such as Ambertonic and Sinfonide from IFF laboratories and Amber Xtreme, a dry amber woody molecule that enhances fragrance performance. 
  • Sophie LabbéA perfume history blockbuster, Eau de Cologne - born in Italy but made popular in Germany - passes the test of time without the slightest diminishing of its success. The structure of hesperidic fruits and aromatic herbs and spices has become an olfactive family. Reinterpreting Eau de Cologne is no small task but Sophie Labbe unashamedly takes down the structure, in a stylistic exercise, with one constraint - eliminating Hesperides! For a long time, Eau de Cologne has been associated with freshness, being correlated with citrus fruits. However, in the land of 2.0, Cologne is made without them. To preserve its strength, the perfumer compensates for the absence of citrus by spices such as ginger, a particular ginger oil fresh by LMR, selected for its freshly grated rhizome effect. Coriander seed essence, very complex, replaces bergamot with its spicy, woody and aromatic notes. Bitter notes can also be found with gentian absolute MD LMR. Peppery notes of pink pepper and powerful elemi come together to impart a peppery citrus presence. This Cologne also caters to the demands of our times: long-lastingness. Musks extend its sillage, Ambroxan, Ambertonic, Sinfonide among others, as well as a vetiver heart LMR which creates a chypre dry down. The result is a lasting freshness, a beautiful oxymoron of today.
  • Domitille Michalon BertierThis is not a musk. Today's musk is all over, however it's literally nowhere. It carries in its heart the nostalgia of old perfumery times when Tonkin musk bewitched hearts. Thanks to chemistry, it is also substituted for a complex, dirty animalic note. To this one must add another: tobacco smells. Cigarettes have become digital. Since our times are about creating decoys, the perfumer created a scented trompe-l'oeil (or trompe-nose): musk without musk, tobacco without tobacco, mirroring the art of perfumery. An art of illusion! The ingredients in this formula ultimately matter little. They are only serving the effects that we feel when smelling Tonkin musk and tobacco. Ambertonic, Ambrettolide, Sinfonide - white musks lie on a base of civet (without civet) and castoreum (without castoreum) from the perfumer's own recipes. Still this would not reveal its components - in perfumery, secrecy is of the essence. One could also, because of a vanilla and tonka bean effect, talk about the premises of a tobacco accord, but here again, we'd have to stop. It's better then to refer to Picasso, and nothing more, when it comes to bringing shape to life, who simply said: "without blue, I use red". And with that, no further comment. 
  • Julien RasquinetAt the origin of perfumery lies myrrh. Or more accurately, perfume originally was myrrh. It was a gift personifying the best that the earth can provide. So when Julien Rasquinet was asked to renew myrrh, he chose to start with its genesis - a myrrh tear, rubbed with silex, now white-hot. (Fyi silex is silica, especially quartz or flint). The myrrh resinoid underwent a molecular distillation at LMR which yielded its warm balsamic heart with liquorice nuances. In this formula, it's used in an overdose. To amplify the liquorice aspect there is a shot of rum absolute blazed under mineral flintstone and gunpowder notes. CO2 pink pepper LMR brings even more fire to this fragrance. In the dry down, patchouli heart, vetiver and angelica root anchor the entire fragrance to better represent the "roots" of perfumery which inspired it. 
  • Dominique RopionKyphi stands for "twice good perfume" good for the gods, good for men. Its recipe is the oldest on record, engraved on the walls of Egyptian temples, it notes about twenty ingredients. A few years ago, Dominique Ropion had looked at its composition to create an alcohol-based version, and guessed the proportions not found in the hieroglyphs. It's this form of Kyphi which is presented today at the Grand Musee du Parfum in Paris. For this Speed Smelling project, he has recreated his original Kyphi. The first Kyphi formulated by Ropion is used here as a base. The notes of this first Kyphi include a honey accord, containing an LMR beeswax absolute, an LMR broom absolute, strong doses of spices such as saffron, cardamom and ginger, cypriol essence - extracted from a species of papyrus - and myrrh. To modernize it, Ropion adorns it with ingredients then unknown, IFF captives such as Cosmofruit - and its sugared fruits notes, which express the grape featured in the original formula - and oud which blends perfectly with cypriol. 
  • Nelly Hachem-RuizA language of instant emotions, emojis bear a strong resemblance to perfume. Each year new images are created to better capture the spirit of the times. Nelly Hachem-Ruiz presents an interpretation of an emoji of a woman breastfeeding her child. This breastfeeding emoji evokes a feeling, which the perfumer, a young mother, knows well for having recently experienced it. It's a warm, soft, peaceful moment. A cloud of vanilla milk envelops two connected bodies. Invisible threads are woven in these shared molecules which impart upon every single human child a marked preference for vanillin, close to one of the constituents of a mother's milk. To represent it, Hachem-Ruiz chose white Australian sandalwood and united its creamy tonality with powdery heliotrope and coconut lactones. These are balanced by touches of natural orris, vanilla and patchouli heart LMR creating a scent recognized by all; completely universal.

 


2017 IFF Speed Smelling™ Post Modern Collection Sampler Coffret - Set of Fourteen 1/2ml Samples
  • Fanny BalAmber became its own olfactive reference from the start of the 20th century. Since then it has taken the form of a mythical accord formed around a duo of vanilla and labdanum. Fanny Bal looked into the formulas of these old historic bases, to void them of their outdated aspects, while preserving their original beauty. She imagined how to incorporate an Ambre 2017 base in a fragrance and created a gourmand interpretation, glazed with Nutella. An amber laid bare. Of the original illustrious accord only its key components were kept. This new composition features ciste - a small Mediterranean resinous tree, which yields labdanum and which in its absolute form evokes incense. The ciste is reinforced by a modern amber note, ambroxan, as well as vanillin. To summon the beauty of nature, LMR (IFF's in-house naturals facility, Laboratoire Monique Remy) CO2 vanilla bean extract was also added, bring a vegetal and mouthwatering leather aspect. Then comes the revolution: the original heady ylang is replaced by a lighter jasmine. Pink berries are replaced by the spice coriander seed. In the base, Indonesian patchouli MD (molecular distillation) LMR, Haitian vetiver MD LMR and white sandalwood are combined to form a sturdy woody-chypre architecture which is contrasted with cocoa absolute MD LMR, the origin of the unexpected Nutella effect. Amber is newly adorned.
  • Nicolas BeaulieuAt the heart of this modernization endeavor is a base created by IFF in the last century called Epicene Gamma. Although it was originally considered unisex, in the 1980s it acquired a masculine identity since it was a key success factor in many major men's fragrances. Epicene Gamma is spicy, leathery and also slightly green. In his interpretation, Nicolas Beaulieu amplified this contrast by playing a fresh spice card, which is a recurring demand for masculine fragrances. In the heart of the fragrance nutmeg and clary sage - LMR quality - are preserved, keeping in line with the original composition. Modifications mainly take place in the base, ridding it of its slightly old-fashioned nitromusks, and making room for a cocktail of modern musks such as Ambertonic and Sinfonide from IFF laboratories. Isolbutyl quinoline with its leathery and green pepper notes, is replaced by an accord which fuses the grand new Saffiano - evoking distressed leather - and the aromatic natural lentisque. Eugenol, famous for its dated clove effect, is updated by Madagascar LMR black pepper. 
  • Alexis DadierThis approach is halfway between cut and paste, playing to both postmodernism and sustainable development, since no new resources was involved. The perfume oils used in this creation are all recycled materials redirected towards a new formula. This perfume was born from the juxtaposition of four accords conceived by the perfumer before this project began. The novelty of the perfume lies in their surprising alchemy. The first piece of the puzzle; almond milk built around a bitter almond essence. Second piece: a Genmaicha tea which faithfully suggests rice crispies in green tea leaves, consisting of sesame absolute and mate absolute among other things. Third piece: conjures up rough hemp, a vegetable fabric comprised of MHR Tunisia rosemary, LMR patchouli, LMR lentisque, and LMR hay absolute. Fourth piece: a masculine fougere accord. What am I? A vegan milk, chic and urban, comfortable and reassuring like all healthy and organic foods. Innovating by returning to our roots and using preserved resources.
  • Loc DongGluttony, greed, envy, sloth, lust, pride, wrath: it only takes a rapid soul-searching to see that the seven cardinal sins are easy to find in perfumery throughout its history to the present day. Loc Dong has created a concentrate of the sins of his craft and his industry. Each ingredient reflects a fault, or an abuse, observed here with a lenient smile. The aim is not to judge, but to have a collective laugh. And because the seven deadly sins were often a source of inspiration in art, this is about recycling and rerouting historical olfactory trends, in a particularly post-modern way. Each ingredient embodies one of the seven deadly sins. Gluttony - veltol overdose - supposed to snatch our youth-longing silly hearts. Sloth is represented by tobacco leaves absolute - the latest taboo. Lust is expressed through a promiscuous woman turned flower: tuberose, in its LMR absolute. Pride manifests itself as an excess of dihydromyrcenol, the molecule which stands for "oh-you-smell-so-clean-have-you-smelled-this- yes-thank-you-that's-enough", hygiene 80s style. Cosmofruit embodies modern envy, this Holy Grail of innovation that everyone chases. Wrath - a galbanum essence conveys fanaticism for an all-natural-life-style, igniting the fury of perfumers careful for their precious chemistry not be cast away. The only one left is Greed and this is what the IFF literature says: Last but not least, sin of all sins, the carnival of story-telling which sometimes has the perfumer read out absurd poetry, personified here by a mermaid absolute, 100% natural, handmade by Icelandic fishermen in a volcanic cloud. (Perhaps something was lost in the translation?)
  • Caroline DumurAnatomy of a carnation. Traditional formulation tells us that carnation appears when rose and eugenol come together. To that you must add solar components such as ylang and orris to powder up. In this new carnation only the highest qualities are used: LMR Turkish rose absolute orris concrete LMR and LMR ylang extra. But under the pressure of modernity, eugenol is replaced by a cocktail of LMR Madagascar black pepper and LMR pink pepper CO2. To complete this delicate makeover, C12 aldehydes crown the flowered head, bringing a rising and burning impression, akin to incense, the ancestor of all perfumes. Carnation is thus renewed as well as transgendered - the flower has become more masculine. Undeniably the carnal flesh and skin are summoned by this flower, this "in-carnation".
  • Anne FlipoBack when she was 20, Anne Flipo had a kind of love-struck crush on a base which made her heart go wild - Arbrensa. It was an ambery, woody, oakmossy inspiration, owed in no small part to a synthetic molecule called Veramoss. She detached all the components of the initial formula to reorganize them and change a few pieces. Arbrensa is composed of three distinct but intertwined blocks: the first one is creamy, the second one ambery, the last woody. For the cream, she played with lactones with tonalities of milky tonka bean. Labdanum resinoid MD LMR brings the classical ambery notes, while Trimofix moves ambers towards woods. Healingwood LMR, the pure heart of patchouli, carries the composition towards a slightly moist chypre, confirmed by the woody and fresh presence of the aptly-named Coolwood, a brand new IFF captive molecule. A solid base for a powerful fragrance which is rendered addictive through its excessive character.
  • Jean-Christophe HeraultOver the past few decades, the perfumer's palette has seen many changes. It has encountered elimination of mostly animalic natural ingredients and additions of new chemical ingredients or natural ingredients bred from the prolific research in both areas. Recent ingredients sometimes compensate for the disappearance of old ones. Jean-Christophe Herault regrets the loss of phenolic notes - those distressed, horse-stable leather notes, which gave such cachet to a composition. He set about recreating them in an old aged rum accord, matured in whiskey barrels. The reinvention is also that of what gourmandise stands for - a territory often associated with veltol, not used here - embodied by a spirituous chypre. The rum accord at the heart of this composition recreates a likeness to whiskey. The temptation begins with a mouth-watering rum absolute enriched with spicy caramel notes. It is amplified by fruity essences of nova orange and mandarine with a combined effect that is reminiscent of Grand Marnier. LMR davana essence brings a finishing touch to the liquor bouquet with its cherry notes. The woody aspect is inspired by a guaiac essence and the slightly leathery tones of LMR Haitian vetiver. Patchouli imparts the perfume's chypre structure. This fragrance brings together the distillation methods of perfumery and distillery. Two fields long-intermingled, with perfume being drunk up until the time of Napoleon the 1st. A reinvented and mouth-watering gourmandise. 
  • Bruno JovanovicIt's a fur collar, overloaded with musk, worn by a woman from the past. This olfactory image was found by Bruno Jovanovic in a base created by IFF a long time ago, Tonquitone. Created to evoke Tonkin musk - a musk now eliminated from the perfumer's palette because of its now protected animal origin - this base brings together the animal note and the femininity. Through synthetic musks, recently invented molecules and vegetal musks, the perfumer reinterprets this historical composition to conjure a fur without hunting down endangered species. Its imprint is brought back to life in the form of a Bellanone accord, a captive molecule developed by IFF, as beautiful as a skin musk, and LMR ambrette seed absolute, the only original musk of vegetal origin. Ambrette, which belongs to the hibiscus family, dispenses in its seeds, the full animality of a sexual flower. A note of cognac plays a part in this enveloping fur accord. It is sharply contrasted with a breath of fresh, ocean-like molecule: Maritima which calls to mind saline crystals caught in fur. The animal is back and one could say it's rather feminine.
  • Juliette KaragueuzoglouPerfume and music were the favored channels of communication with the gods. Juliette Karagueuzoglou worked with incense and myrrh to satisfy the gourmand nostrils of today's perfume wearers. If our appetite was oriental before, its now leaning towards sweet. Karagueuzoglou added LMR cacao absolute MD and coconut water, an LMR olibanum heart, cleared of its antique dust, and in the drydown, a cocktail of modern musks such as Ambertonic and Sinfonide from IFF laboratories and Amber Xtreme, a dry amber woody molecule that enhances fragrance performance. 
  • Sophie LabbéA perfume history blockbuster, Eau de Cologne - born in Italy but made popular in Germany - passes the test of time without the slightest diminishing of its success. The structure of hesperidic fruits and aromatic herbs and spices has become an olfactive family. Reinterpreting Eau de Cologne is no small task but Sophie Labbe unashamedly takes down the structure, in a stylistic exercise, with one constraint - eliminating Hesperides! For a long time, Eau de Cologne has been associated with freshness, being correlated with citrus fruits. However, in the land of 2.0, Cologne is made without them. To preserve its strength, the perfumer compensates for the absence of citrus by spices such as ginger, a particular ginger oil fresh by LMR, selected for its freshly grated rhizome effect. Coriander seed essence, very complex, replaces bergamot with its spicy, woody and aromatic notes. Bitter notes can also be found with gentian absolute MD LMR. Peppery notes of pink pepper and powerful elemi come together to impart a peppery citrus presence. This Cologne also caters to the demands of our times: long-lastingness. Musks extend its sillage, Ambroxan, Ambertonic, Sinfonide among others, as well as a vetiver heart LMR which creates a chypre dry down. The result is a lasting freshness, a beautiful oxymoron of today.
  • Domitille Michalon BertierThis is not a musk. Today's musk is all over, however it's literally nowhere. It carries in its heart the nostalgia of old perfumery times when Tonkin musk bewitched hearts. Thanks to chemistry, it is also substituted for a complex, dirty animalic note. To this one must add another: tobacco smells. Cigarettes have become digital. Since our times are about creating decoys, the perfumer created a scented trompe-l'oeil (or trompe-nose): musk without musk, tobacco without tobacco, mirroring the art of perfumery. An art of illusion! The ingredients in this formula ultimately matter little. They are only serving the effects that we feel when smelling Tonkin musk and tobacco. Ambertonic, Ambrettolide, Sinfonide - white musks lie on a base of civet (without civet) and castoreum (without castoreum) from the perfumer's own recipes. Still this would not reveal its components - in perfumery, secrecy is of the essence. One could also, because of a vanilla and tonka bean effect, talk about the premises of a tobacco accord, but here again, we'd have to stop. It's better then to refer to Picasso, and nothing more, when it comes to bringing shape to life, who simply said: "without blue, I use red". And with that, no further comment. 
  • Julien RasquinetAt the origin of perfumery lies myrrh. Or more accurately, perfume originally was myrrh. It was a gift personifying the best that the earth can provide. So when Julien Rasquinet was asked to renew myrrh, he chose to start with its genesis - a myrrh tear, rubbed with silex, now white-hot. (Fyi silex is silica, especially quartz or flint). The myrrh resinoid underwent a molecular distillation at LMR which yielded its warm balsamic heart with liquorice nuances. In this formula, it's used in an overdose. To amplify the liquorice aspect there is a shot of rum absolute blazed under mineral flintstone and gunpowder notes. CO2 pink pepper LMR brings even more fire to this fragrance. In the dry down, patchouli heart, vetiver and angelica root anchor the entire fragrance to better represent the "roots" of perfumery which inspired it. 
  • Dominique RopionKyphi stands for "twice good perfume" good for the gods, good for men. Its recipe is the oldest on record, engraved on the walls of Egyptian temples, it notes about twenty ingredients. A few years ago, Dominique Ropion had looked at its composition to create an alcohol-based version, and guessed the proportions not found in the hieroglyphs. It's this form of Kyphi which is presented today at the Grand Musee du Parfum in Paris. For this Speed Smelling project, he has recreated his original Kyphi. The first Kyphi formulated by Ropion is used here as a base. The notes of this first Kyphi include a honey accord, containing an LMR beeswax absolute, an LMR broom absolute, strong doses of spices such as saffron, cardamom and ginger, cypriol essence - extracted from a species of papyrus - and myrrh. To modernize it, Ropion adorns it with ingredients then unknown, IFF captives such as Cosmofruit - and its sugared fruits notes, which express the grape featured in the original formula - and oud which blends perfectly with cypriol. 
  • Nelly Hachem-RuizA language of instant emotions, emojis bear a strong resemblance to perfume. Each year new images are created to better capture the spirit of the times. Nelly Hachem-Ruiz presents an interpretation of an emoji of a woman breastfeeding her child. This breastfeeding emoji evokes a feeling, which the perfumer, a young mother, knows well for having recently experienced it. It's a warm, soft, peaceful moment. A cloud of vanilla milk envelops two connected bodies. Invisible threads are woven in these shared molecules which impart upon every single human child a marked preference for vanillin, close to one of the constituents of a mother's milk. To represent it, Hachem-Ruiz chose white Australian sandalwood and united its creamy tonality with powdery heliotrope and coconut lactones. These are balanced by touches of natural orris, vanilla and patchouli heart LMR creating a scent recognized by all; completely universal.

 

$28.99

Warranty Information

All sales are final, we are a perfume sampling company - letting you try perfume before you invest in a bottle. Unfortunately, we cannot refund any product that you do not like. If you are new to perfume or wanting to break out of wearing the same scent, try our starter sampler packs so that you can find the perfume that works for you.

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