RETRO - Jean Desprez Jardanel Parfum
Year Introduced: Created in 1917 but not launched until 1939, re-released in 1944 and then released in 1973 as a limited edition but stopped shortly after because the cost was prohibitive - Feminine
Notes: Top notes of aldehydes, neroli, orange, bergamot and fruity notes; middle notes of lily of the valley, carnation, orchid, ylang-ylang, myrrh, patchouli, rose, jasmine, honey and narcissus; and base notes of vanilla, benzoin, tolu balsam, incense, labdanum, civet, tonka bean, patchouli, leather, oakmoss, amber, musk, sandalwood, vetiver and Peru balsam
Perfumer Jean Desprez was the great-grandson of perfumer Félix Millot, and he carried on the family tradition with pride. He created the iconic fragrance Crêpe de Chine. Jardanel is a feminine chypre fragrance.
An excerpt of a review from Basenotes:
There is not a lot of information readily available on Jardanel. It had a very early release (1939) only to be re-released in 1944 and then in 1973 when production stopped because of the cost. Now if that doesn't intrigue someone to go find a bottle to see what the fuss was about, I'm not sure what would.
In 1973, the chypre perfume Jardanel was relaunched in a limited edition, with labels suggestive of the Edwardian period, as the basic formula was originally created in 1917, by Jean Desprez, but not launched until 1939.
Its composition may not have been fully developed the first time around and was probably improved upon over the years until Jean, true to his stubborn nature, felt he had gotten it right. The perfume had notes of citrus, leather, myrrh, Peru balsam, vetiver and oak moss. Jardanel was soon discontinued after the 1970s relaunch, because the cost of reproduction was too exorbitant.
I have gathered that it has an aldehyde citrus leather opening. Yes a citrus leather. It moves onto a beautiful floral heart reminiscent of Guerlain's Parure floral heart. Jardanel was released in 1973, Parure in 1976. Only, Jardanel isn't as stodgy and icy as Parure. Jardanel has a comfortable warmth about her, and her notes do change depending on the conditions.
Its oakmoss component supports it but does not veer into the forefront like it did in Parure EDT or lets say, Nuit de Noel by Caron. Now why am I bringing up Caron NDN? DeLaire's Mousse de Saxe base that was famous for giving Caron fragrances their signature dry down is also found in Jardanel. It seems Jardanel by Jean Desprez could have been the forerunner to Nuit de Noel, since it was developed in 1917 but not released for the first time until 1939. NDN by Caron was released in 1922. I wore vintage NDN and Jardenel and NDN shares the same notes as Jardanel, but Jardanel adds a stunning citrus leather and animalic mousse de saxe drydown with the tolu woods leading the way.
Jardanel on her own reads like her sibling Bal a Versailles. There is the depth and richness in her character and a green outside theme moving through it rather than the grand dark oriental musk masquerade of decadence in Bal.
Its silage is moderate in the EDC and the longevity on me lasted a good 12 hrs into 24 with it eventually "wearing off" rather than just disappearing. Clothing retains the drydown until you wash it. She is a soft powerhouse. I'd love to try the PDT or Parfum to see if Desprez layered this creation like he intended Bal to be worn in all concentrations at once. But alas, Jardanel had a limited release and not too many are out there...but Desprez's forgotten green gem is just as beautiful as her famous relative Bal a Versailles in her own way.
An excerpt of a review from Basenotes:
Upon smelling Jardanel, it becomes obvious rather quickly that Monsieur Desprez had a taste for strong willed scents: This is nothing like Bal a Versailles, but is equally assertive. Unmistakably a green scent, it is neither daffodil chypre nor a fizzy neon green symphony like "Vacances" or "Vent Vert." Where these two evoke civilized strolls along "La Piste" in Deauville or on the Cap d'Antibes, Jardanel will summons visions of roaming around naked in the Black Forest. A Jean Desprez hallmark becomes apparent as soon as this extract is applied, which would be detectable in its explosive, persistent personality from 0:001 seconds forward: The flight is magnificent. Where Bal is sexy in a satin lined boudoir kind of way, Jardanel is eroticism laying in the grass, ravished, and begging for more: All muddied up and sweat stained, gasping, and beckoning for a second, or third lover to take his turn. One wonders which precise sort of girl Jean Desprez had in mind when he baptized his signature scent with the slogan "For a Certain Kind of Woman." A slogan that would fit Jardanel beautifully, with its strange, raw earth scent, and its powerful, musk laden sillage.
Jardanel could sit barefoot in a caftan in the middle of the woods strumming a lute with a garland of juniper around her head. Were perfumes to be equated with music, where Bal a Versailles blares a classical, grandiose waltz, Jardanel seems to harken T-Rex's album "A Beard Full of Stars." Jardanel would be Bal a Versailles' renegade, hippie sister, who barely shows her face at court and prefers to live in the woods and cavort with the pig-suede clad pied pipers and long haired poets who would rob from her rich family, and spend the bootie on drugs. In spite of this, one is never reminded of dirty, penniless street hippies: For here, we are in the realms of the rich, decadent jet setters and rock stars who had themselves dropped off at ashrams in Silver Phantom Rolls Royces painted deep, British Racing Stripe green. If Bal a Versailles would be the perfect scent to wear to the grandest, most royal reception, Jardanel would be the one to wear to a deep forest camping trip, or an outside music festival. An enchanting fragrance, that will have women leaving their armpits unshaven, and men keeping a vaporizer of "Binaca" tucked into their skin-tight brown leather jeans, lest, hidden among the ferns and brush, the opportunity for a tryst, or a mere stolen kiss, presents itself.
Jardanel has been discontinued.
We are decanting from an unopened, boxed bottle of the 1973 limited edition version of the parfum.