BDK Vanille Caviar was released in 2025, created by Alexandra Carlin. With a cassis-slanted take on vanilla - this is NOT a sweet vanilla at all! - it has notes of calamus, cassis, vanille, osmanthus, cacao, labdanum, vanilla and Peru balsam. It seems to be a little polarizing, with some people commenting that is smells like fish. The Caviar in the title has nothing to do with fish! Cassis has a bit of a pee slant to it, so be prepared for that on the open.
From the brand - "In the manner of a monochrome, BDK Parfums’ new fragrance explores the mysterious power of black, no longer seen as a shadow but revealed as a source of light. The sixth creation of the Collection Matières, Vanille Caviar is a perfume where the material itself becomes brilliance, through a vanilla worked to the utmost, elevated to the status of a noble substance. Here, vanilla, creamy and gourmand, becomes dark, dense, textured, and yet pierced with luminosity. Originating from an orchid, vanilla comes from a majestic flower with an almost unreal beauty. Its sensuality and addictive, suave aroma find a deep resonance in this composition. The seeds, a deep black, appear with a subtle sheen. The fragrance is structured around a single olfactory raw material: vanilla, revealed in all its nuances through CO₂ extract and absolute. Cocoa and resinous materials, Peru balsam and labdanum cistus, unfold its full richness and depth. At the heart lies a unique vanilla caviar accord with salty, mineral facets, as precious as it is distinctive. Surrounding it, subtle contrasts: the freshness of cardamom, the fruity brightness of blackcurrant, and the warmth of cocoa beans. Here, light no longer comes from a golden shimmer or a solar accord, it radiates from the very heart of the vanilla and the notes that accompany it. This is a Outrenoir vanilla, dark in appearance yet vibrant and alive, like artworks that change throughout the day depending on the light, shadow, or gaze. A sensual and enveloping composition, at once singular, modern, and timeless.."
From the perfumer, Alexandra Carlin - "With Vanille Caviar, I wanted to explore the intimate flesh of vanilla, to dive deep into the heart of the pod, at that moment when it’s split open and oozes a dark, glistening nectar. That’s exactly how I composed this fragrance, using dense, layered materials like balms, resins, and powders, and shaping its luminous, glistening caviar accord."
BDK Parfums Vanille Caviar is an EDP, eau de parfum.
Fragrantica - "It is a balsamic, slightly green vanilla which is between a wearable not too sweet and a bit more dark special occasions vanilla. It is perfectly unisex, maybe a tiny bit more feminine leaning.
And the performance on skin is impressive: 7-8 hours of longevity, with moderate projection for 2-3 hours, then stays closer to the skin."
Fragrantica - "To me, the composition smells very beautiful and full-bodied. The vanilla in the base is truly distinctive, not light and gourmand as we’re used to, but deep, as if dissolved in resins, warmed by rum and balm.
The fragrance is long-lasting, rich, and captivating, like the aromatic steam rising from a hot drink on a cold evening"
Fragrantica - "the smell itself is hypermodern. its feels like a "tech-vanilla". no nostalgia, no gourmand facets, no tonka/caramel/benzoin vibes. just very reduced sweetness, balanced by dryness and "moleculish" precision. contrarily to most vanillas its super airy and translucent. it somewhat reminds me of bois talisman, too. this one is way less abstract and has a bit more body but its similar in its modern transparent molecule vanilla style. imo this is rather easy to wear after 5 min. most people will enjoy this if they want something sweet without verging into smelling edible."
Fragrantica - "I smelled this at a niche store in London and initially thought “WOAH”. An abrasive vanilla with a harsh, rooty calamus top note. It feels cold and detached, more like an idea of luxury than something truly human or warm. Not a scent I would ever want to wear or be around."
Fragrantica - "I found this fragrance in a niche perfume shop in Lisbon, and was unsure about it initially. However, for the rest of the day I couldn't stop smelling my wrist where I sprayed it, it was addicting. I went back the next day and purchased it. It starts off quite spicy, and settles into a sweet spicy mix that imo smells sooo good. Not your basic young Vanilla scent - I'm obsessed."
