Kilian (By Kilian)
By Kilian Musc Oud is part of the Collection Arabian Nights, the last entry in the series. Using notes notes of lemon, mandarin, cardamom, coriander, cypress, Bulgarian Rose, geranium, davana, rum extract, frankincense, oud, Musk and patchouli, Alberto Morillas has created the sultry version of oud in this series. This will be the last in the Arabian Nights Collection.
Kilian Hennessy launched By Kilian in 2007. Yup, the Cognac Hennessy, grandson to the founder of Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton Group, he followed his interest in scent, writing his thesis on the semantics of odors. After spending time with leading perfumers, he launched By Kilian with the Collection L'oeuvre Noire (Black Masterpiece) series. There are now 10 fragrances in that series. The over-the-top marketing copy drew a lot of criticism in the early part of his launch, but the gorgeous packaging - black lacquer boxes and black bottles - started to win us over, as did the artistry of the fragrances.
Kafkaesque - "Musk Oud is the furthest thing from complicated and, on my skin, it is also the furthest thing from either an animalic musk fragrance or a true oud one. It opens on my skin with a rich, beefy, dark red rose that drips thick, jammy juices and which is lightly infused with lemon and a touch of orange. The whole thing is covered with a heavy layer of gorgeous cardamom, and sits upon a quiet, woody base of cypress tinged with patchouli. Seconds later, like a crocodile’s tail moving in muddy water, there are tiny ripples of animalic musk. To my slight unease, it smells very much like dirty, unwashed hair. However, the note is not only incredibly subtle, it essentially vanishes for most of the perfume’s development. It subsequently pops up only two more times, gives a brief bow for a few minutes, and then disappears completely. I was actually surprised by how evanescent it was since one blogger (who admittedly loathes anything animalic) was completely traumatized by the note in Musk Oud. Since my skin actually amplifies both animalic and base notes, I’d fully prepared myself to be overcome by every possible filthy, dirty, raunchy, unwashed, fetid aroma imaginable. Never happened. Not once. And if it should happen to anyone, it should happen to me with my wonky skin that amplifies animalics. Instead, there were only the most minuscule of stirrings in the brown waters of Musk Oud’s base. Perhaps a more accurate analogy would be to compare it to a mosquito in water instead of a crocodile’s tail."
More information and By Kilian reviews can be found at:
|Perfume Name||By Kilian Musk Oud|
|Strength||Eau de parfum, edp|
|Notes||lemon, mandarin, cardamom, coriander, cypress, Bulgarian Rose, geranium, davana, rum extract, frankincense, oud, Musk and patchouli|
|Country of Origin||France|