Diptyque Orpheon is a unisex Woody Chypre that launched in 2021. It features a top note of juniper berries; a middle note of jasmine; and base notes of powdery notes, cedar and tonka bean. It is an eau de parfum, edp.
The setting: Paris in the early 60s. The Saint-Germain quarter was alive with the rhythm of all-night sessions in jazz clubs and artistic encounters. Orpheon was one of the bars, filled with joyful effervescence, where the three founders of the nearby Diptyque boutique liked to meet. Today, paying tribute to this era and to creative friendships, the bar is immortalized in Diptyque's new fragrance which celebrates their 60th anniversary. Interesting to note that today, all that remains of Orpheon is a faceted blue column in the back of their boutique at 34 blvd Saint-Germain.
Freeze frame: curls of tobacco smoke mingle with powdery trails of blusher, lingering on burnished wood. At the heart of the composition is the atmosphere of that unforgettable place, recognizable through the warmth of the tonka bean, the depth of cedar and the vivacity of juniper berries.
DIPTYQUE ORPHEON REVIEWS
Fragrantica - "I love Orpheon! It's the perfect skin scent. It accomplishes the middle ground between Fleur de Peau and Glossier You. Where Fleur de Peau skews a little papery, chalky and Glossier You gets a little boozy, Orpheon got it right. It feels like an homage to both. It's got a powdery papery vibe, with a subtle sweet spiciness that doesn't veer into boozy territory, and warmed by a nice very background soft woodiness. It dries down in a kind of peppery, almost slightly aldehydic, animalic way from the jasmine. How do I explain that this dry down is just perfection?! If Fleur De Peau and Glossier You were almost right for you, but not quite there, try Orpheon. WHO I PICTURE THIS ON: Honestly feels very unisex, and I have visions of all NYers smelling like this in 2 years like they currently do of Santal 33. I feel like this will be the scent of Soho House very soon."
Colognoisseur - "The perfume is meant to capture those exciting times as the founders of Diptyque were creating their business. Like so many young businesses after a long day you would retire to the local bar. The founders spent a lot of time at the Orpheon which was right down the street from their 34 Boulevard Saint-Germaine atelier. There is no one left at the company to provide the knowledge of those days. It posed a challenge to perfumer Olivier Perscheux who would have to imagine the scene. His vision of the Latin Quarter in Paris 1961 is to keep it simple. Find the darkness of the polished wood, the cigarette smoke, a splash of gin around the floral keynotes that will spawn an influential brand. I am guessing M. Pescheux was told the founders favored gin. That’s because the opening accord is an icy gin and tonic accord complete with a lime. Juniper berry is the core the slice of lime sparkles in the glass. There is a fizz of aldehydes providing chill and effervescence. With the drinks served it is time to brainstorm. M. Pescheux creates a dynamic heart of multiple florals. Headed up by jasmine, ylang-ylang, magnolia, and rose are all there as well. It is as if they are trying to decide which floral their first perfume should be based upon. The cigarette smoke hangs in the air through a tobacco accord. As they sit back, the highly polished wood of the bar makes itself known. Cedar is given a high-gloss shine through vetiver and benzoin. Orpheon has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage."