Guerlain Chamade was created in 1969 by Jean-Paul Guerlain. It takes its inspiration from the novel "La Chamade" by Francoise Sagan - how the heart beats fast when you are in love. Rated a Masterpiece by Luca Turin, he says he lived near the Paris flagship store at the time Chamade was released, and it took him months to realize the two perfumes (top and heart) he kept smelling were in fact one and the same.
Chamade is part of Guerlain's Patrimoine Collection which features emblematic fragrances composed for more than a century by five generations of Guerlain perfumers. It is a fruity floral oriental fragrance that features top notes of bergamot, hyacinth and galbanum; middle notes of rose, jasmine, lilac, clove and ylang-ylang; and base notes of vanilla, amber, benzoin, sandalwood, vetiver, blackcurrant bud, orris and ambergris.
It marked the first use of blackcurrant bud in perfumery and also was the first fragrance based around hyacinth over a Guerlinade base. Chamade is an eau de toilette, edt.
The Hundred Classics Pick (Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez)
From Bois de Jasmin - "The new batch of Chamade has gotten its curves back, and all versions are excellent. The Eau de Toilette is graced with a sparkling green top note that feels richer, brighter and more faceted. The same green note that smells like crushed leaves and sticky buds (galbanum) gives the extrait de parfum more complexity. Chamade feels closer to the original than it has in years. A fragrance that truly deserves its iconic status."
From Perfume Posse - "it has a luminosity that makes me think of fireflies in the night, in one of their rare displays of synchronous flashing. It sends up its small golden flares in measured bursts as I wear it, the heavy vanillic white florals interspersed with the green-tartness of blackcurrant. It is leagues and fathoms away from the current Guerlains of the quasi-edible variety, but it’s less old-school and “difficult” than Jicky, Mitsouko or Parure (to name three Guerlains I happen to love, but I certainly understand why others don’t.) For a well-mannered floral with both powder and aldehydes, Chamade doesn’t make me feel like Aunt Nellie pinning on a brooch – it’s too wet and beautiful to smell old-fashioned. The drydown after two or three hours is well worth the wait – the powder fades, and it’s a quiet, ambery benzoin with a touch of honey."
Opens with a bitter blast of galbanum but 10 minutes later evolves into a symphony of yellow flowers and fruit and a hint of spice. The galbanum stays in the background to keep it from getting too coyingly sweet (like some of the modern girly perfumers). Not my absolute favorite Guerlain but very wearable.
Opens with a bitter blast of galbanum but 10 minutes later evolves into a symphony of yellow flowers and fruit and a hint of spice. The galbanum stays in the background to keep it from getting too coyingly sweet (like some of the modern girly perfumers). Not my absolute favorite Guerlain but very wearable.
