Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan is the animalic musk that all other musks are just pretenders to. It generates a lot of mixed opinion. The cumin on the open, if you aren't prepared for it, can smell pretty gamey, resembling more of an armpit following a three-hour rugby match. But hang on! That doesn't last that long. Once it passes, you will start getting this soft, warmed skin scent.
As I said when I smelled it the first time "It is the smell of humanity. Not the idealistic or beautiful part of it only, but the real part, the well-worn place of skin and sweat and memory and emotion. I can do nothing but bury my nose in this scent and breathe in all the misery and joy of being human." (from Perfume Posse)
Kafkaesque - "Catherine the Great on horseback, riding to meet a young Cossack officer at a secret rendezvous where the lovers will tangle under Siberian furs before a roaring fireplace. Henry VIII seducing Anne Boleyn on more piles of fur on a winter’s night at a hunting lodge. The Sun King, Louis XIV, and one of his mistresses at Versailles, a palace redolent with the smell of the human body covered by powdered roses. The memory of riding my horse on a warm day, and the subtle aroma of his lightly musked, heated, muscular neck, mixed with the smell of the leather harness and saddle. Those tangled thoughts and images are what cross my mind when I wear Muscs Koublaï Khan from Serge Lutens."
Bois de Jasmin - "Muscs Koublaï Khan keeps its wearer in suspense from the very start when the sweet ambery chord begins to soften and reveal the smoky woods, musk and leather. A vivid flourish of jasmine and rose flashes across the darkness of the composition, serving as a caressing touch after the roughness of balsamic and animalic notes. The apricot like shimmer of jasmine soon fades away, but the crimson red rose petals remain behind, twisting around the smoky incense and warm leather accents. My favorite part of Muscs Koublaï Khan is its drydown. If the earlier stages of the composition suggest a decadent fantasy of salty skin and cognac scented kisses, the later story is even more beguiling. The rooty, green musk and earthy patchouli combine to create an impression of having falling asleep on the beach– the scents of hot sand and seaweed blend with those of your wet hair and sun warmed skin to create your own unique and intimate fragrance. And perhaps, you still remember that kiss…"
Basenotes - "This is devilishly divine! :) I ordered a sample and knew I'd want to buy a full bottle at some point. True to its reputation, Muscs Koublai Khan is animalic as all get-out - but in a knowing, sophisticated way, neither crude nor overweaning. It's not even edgy: it's elegant, but just barely. This masterfully blended symphony of musk, civet and floral notes is just lovely."
Perfume Posse - "It is not the scent of horses or sex or sweat. It is the smell of humanity. Not the idealistic or beautiful part of it only, but the real part, the well-worn place of skin and sweat and memory and emotion. I can do nothing but bury my nose in this scent and breathe in all the misery and joy of being human. I can’t be without this scent in my life because every time I forget what it is to be flawed and real, I can smell this and remember."
Parfumo - "If you plan on blind-buying Muscs Koublai Khan, I don't know what to tell you. It is legendary, experts say it is even a reference musk scent. I agree it is absolutely wonderful. Its fans however differ on the perception of musk being clean or dirty. When I had just a small dab sample, I thought it was more on the clean and soapy side. Today I had five full sprays and I do feel like a Mongolian savage:) but the scent is beautiful at the same time. I already got my first anti-compliment today, was told that I really stink:)) Whatever you do, just don't believe fragrantica, it doesn't smell anything like Kiehls Original Musk."
from perfumesmellinthings - "As far as I am concerned, there is none of that imperial splendor in Muscs Koublai Khan, no enlightened interest in arts and science; magnificent palaces full of priceless objects don’t rise before my eyes when I smell this fragrance. Serge Lutens creation is all about Koublai the warrior, a soldier among his soldiers, a conqueror prowling the great plains. Muscs Koublai Khan is raw, dirty and sensual."
| Perfume Name | Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan |
| Year Introduced | 1998 |
| Perfumer | Christopher Sheldrake |
| Gender | Unisex |
| Collection | Gratte-ciel |
| Notes | Cumin, musk, soft patchouli, vanilla, labdanum, rose, "ripe peach" scent and the aroma of brewed black tea |
| Country of Origin | France |
My review isn’t based on a sample off the site, just my memory of it from 2000s. Muscs Koublai Khan is the scent of a female warrior, standing over the spoils of a long and hard fought battle. A brave, sweaty, vaginal perseverance, together with the rewards for her womanly worth, are merged with sweetly honeyed success.
After reading the reviews I was worried I was getting myself into something I couldn't handle, but I really like it. I didn't get the sweaty vibe from it at all; there is a definite muskiness to it but to my nose it was soft and inviting. Nobody propositioned me while I was wearing it but I did get an appreciative sniff from my hubby!
My review isn’t based on a sample off the site, just my memory of it from 2000s. Muscs Koublai Khan is the scent of a female warrior, standing over the spoils of a long and hard fought battle. A brave, sweaty, vaginal perseverance, together with the rewards for her womanly worth, are merged with sweetly honeyed success.
After reading the reviews I was worried I was getting myself into something I couldn't handle, but I really like it. I didn't get the sweaty vibe from it at all; there is a definite muskiness to it but to my nose it was soft and inviting. Nobody propositioned me while I was wearing it but I did get an appreciative sniff from my hubby!
Koublai Khan starts out a bit loud, with a powdery yell, but wait! Be patient, and the powder gives way to sweetness, and animalic promise of erotic fantasy. My husband said it was the best thing I have ever worn, which is frustrating because I can only afford small samples of this amazing elixir. This is a scent for the bold and curious. Not for fans of perfumes that are commercial or "easy to wear". Not an "office scent". If worn to work, you'll get yourself fired, and then propositioned. Not for wimps.
I read a review stating that this is how you would imagine Khal Drogo smelling and I completely agree. I smell spices in a bazaar, incense, candles, spicy candles, sex in a harem of scantily clad boys with tantric music, the bodies glimpsed through the smoky haze.....doesn't get much sexier than this. The first time I smelled it, I kept coming back, thinking, "Hey, did I catch a whiff of poop?" So, yes, it can be dirty, but its a good kind of dirty that fades into a delicious amber. I layer this with SL Fumerie Turque and a dab of Kilian Eternal Oud. If you are 20 years old, you may not be old enough for this perfume. Try again when you've got some experience under your belt!
Every time I smell this perfume, it reminds me, exactly, of being a kid in summer and smelling like I did back then when I came in from outside. It's pure magic. Yes, I love it for a personal reason. But I also think it's one of the most interesting perfumes ever made.
a certain je ne said quoi ... smells like ... if you took a used leather shoe, filled it with palmolive dishwashing soap, 'degree' deodorant and a bunch of pencil shavings, rubbed it under Freddie Mercury's armpit, then lit it on fire inside of a Soviet DMV circa 1975.
This is an incredible musk if you're not faint at heart. It starts off with a powerful punch of skank and animalism…you won't be wearing THIS to your mother's for dinner! Honey and the sheets you took off the bed the next morning after a hot date dry down to a cuddly mix of laundry and his lingering cologne on the pillow. Lusty and romantic, it's like sneaking away for a weekend of wine and sex. Most people wouldn't dare wear this, but I absolutely adore it. And totally yes to layering, if you go very, very lightly with it!
It took me a long time to wear this one. You must spray into the air and lean into the mist. Do this and it is very wearable. Spray directly on the skin and you get dirty, fecal stench. This is for the bold and not a mainstream connoisseur.
On it's own, MKK starts off smokey and with just a hint of brash, then settles into a cuddly sweater on me. Layer it with almost anything, though, and it adds amazing depth and punch.
I tried this scent because it had a reputation as a FIERCE musk, and I adore a good musc. I was prepared for some nasty notes based on reviews, but on me, it is a perfectly behaved, high quality musk. The 1st 5 minutes produced some :eau de armpit" but that faded quickly, and left a beautiful scent behind. For me it is FB worthy, but test this one before you buy !!!
It's an interesting scent, and certainly reminiscent of the far more successful and beautiful Musc Ravageur. It has the same dirty note, but unfortunately an additional dirty note that is very unpleasant and blots out the good stuff in it. The drydown is excellent, but who wants to endure the hours before it arrives?
I purchased a sample of this based on the high praise reviews I've read by fragrance reviewers throughout different forums; needless to say, I was disappointed. This stuff STINKS and it doesn't stop stinking! I've tried smelling that awesome dry down the reviewers were talking about, but all I smelled was funk. I let one of my lady friends smell it on me, and she frowned (she's 20 yrs old). If you're trying to stink intentionally, this one is for you (or you can skip a shower for a few weeks, roll around in some dog poo & play with a skunk and you'll achieve the same smell for free).
I decided to try this one based on recommendations. I've looked online, and apparently this fragrance smells very different on different people. I'm one of the body odor (cumin) and crotch funk (civet) people. And while this combination isn't necessarily bad, the smell is just too masculine on me. Other people get a soft floral smell with a bit of funk. The floral is there for me, but the "dirty" components are dominant. Others smell poo. I got a bit of poo initially, but it left by the dry down. So I think this is a good one to sample and see if it appeals to you. It may make you want to bring on the funk.
