A must-try.
The venerable Ma Griffe was launched in 1946, after the conclusion of World War ll. From the Carven website: “Mrs Carven created in 1946 a fresh, dashing, very flowery fragrance while remaining classic with a touch of haute couture. Its name imposed itself quite naturally. It would bear the name of Madame Carven's signature dress of simple green and white striped cotton: Ma Griffe. A legendary fragrance inspired by Madame Carven's favorite flowers: Gardenia, Jasmine and Rose.” The name means “my signature” or “my claw.” I was here- and I will be remembered. Ma Griffe was created with the optimism of the coming future in mind. It celebrated a new era of post-War prosperity. It was marketed to a younger demographic, to the young woman who now put the past behind her. It was time at last to celebrate her youth. I was a bit surprised to learn this, as Ma Griffe had never struck me as a “youthful” scent. When I think of a fragrance aimed at a younger demographic, something sweet and gourmand usually comes to mind. (Although anyone of course, of any age, can wear whatever fragrance they wish to.) To the modern nose, Ma Griffe can be a bit of a challenge to get to know. Ma Griffe is certainly not a gourmand, though it does radiate a sublime sweetness in its middle phase. It is classified as a chypre floral, and is a complex (in a good way) fragrance. It begins with a heavy, earthy, herbal wet blast that seems to say “Go ahead- just try to like me." This off-putting phase does not last. Do not let the opening deter you from experiencing this amazing scent. After the darkness passes, Ma Griffe's brighter aspects unfold. It transforms into a lovely, green, sweet, lemon/sage/white floral something, sparkly and fresh. Some people smell cinnamon. I have never detected a cinnamon note in Ma Griffe, although during the multi-nuanced dry-down, there is a powdery something that does have a touch of spiciness. I love every stage of Ma Griffe after the asafoetida has exited, but especially its longest manifestation, which is the green sparkly citrus-ness. Very uplifting. Ma Griffe calls up a memory of a little lemon tree we had in our back yard. It was scrawny, and always looked a bit moribund. But it never failed to produce the best lemons, and, even more delightfully, in Spring it boasted the loveliest lemon meringue pie scented flowers. I remember standing in awe of this funny little tree, all alone in its container, spellbound by the aroma of its new white blossoms. Ma Griffe’s dry-down is like a walk in a garden in Spring, after a morning rain. Green things are glistening with new growth. Unfurling blossoms beckon you. The air is fresh, and herbal, and floral. Rose, jasmine, and gardenia glow gently within the chorus of green and citrus. There is a touch of powdery orris root, and all is anchored by the earthiness of the resins and a whiff of oakmoss and vetiver. Ma Griffe smells like the future. It smells of traditional ingredients that have been combined in a new way. You to feel absolutely unique when you wear this fragrance. I wouldn’t have thought I would end up loving Ma Griffe so. It was my mother's signature "going out" fragrance. Sometimes when I spray it, I can hear her high heels on the hardwood floors, and I see her touching up her Fire and Ice lipstick. A spritz of Ma Griffe, and she was ready to go Out. As a kid, I didn't care for Ma Griffe. It was too weird. My mother's every day fragrance was Woodhue by Faberge, and I loved when she wore that, as it was soft and sweet. Woodhue is almost impossible to find these days, but some years ago, in honor of my mother, I purchased a small bottle of vintage Ma Griffe (I have not tried the new formula, but I would like to.) I sprayed it. Then I put it in the refrigerator. I think I just wasn't ready for it. After years of gourmands- which I still love, and wear- I thought I would give Ma Griffe another try. And to my surprise, I fell head over heels for this strange, modern/vintage, complicated scent. When I get a whiff of it throughout the day, I am indeed filled with a sense of optimism. It’s easy to see why this fragrance was formulated to be the scent of a new era of hope and progress, and belief in the future, after the dark clouds of the Depression and World War ll had finally dispersed. I will never be without this singular and mesmerizing perfume. Ma Griffe is a classic. It makes me feel sophisticated, yet playful. Give it a try, and experience the bright echoes of a bygone age.