No. 44 Fire and Rain is a study in contrasts. Both are revered and feared. They are destructive and cause upheaval; yet they also stimulate change and renewal. This fragrance looks at both sides of each element through the filter of the California landscape. Memories of smoke-filled skies and mud slides at fire-scarred hillsides are tempered by sunny skies, soft breezes filled with flowers and warm woods, and a proximity to a salty coast. Made in small batches by architect and perfumer Danniele Sergent in San Francisco, Sergent explains that the “fragrance looks at both sides of each element through the filter of the California landscape. Memories of smoke-filled skies and mud slides at fire scarred hillsides are tempered by sunny skies, soft breezes filled with flowers and warm woods, and a proximity to a salty coast … In the 3 years since I started No. 44 the fragrance changed a lot. And so had the world around me. We’ve had raging fires and apocalyptic skies in California, mud slides and the isolation of the pandemic. With all of the drama unfolding, flowers, soft warm breezes and coastal walks were the things that restored me. All of these blended with the memories of the smoke-filled skies and the promise of rain formed the structure of the fragrance. A love letter to California.”
Fire and Rain is the brand’s 10th anniversary fragrance. It was originally conceived as a scent sketch for the 2018 Los Angeles Experimental Scent Fair. The resulting fragrance, Mud + Fire/Flame, became an unexpected favorite, which inspired Sergent to “really look at the ingredients and create a fully formed perfume with a similar concept.” Fire and Rain grew out of this exploration and became, in Sergent’s words, “a love letter to California. A milestone.” It features notes of rain (geosmin), California coast (salt, Grisalva), sunshine (pink grapefruit, blood orange and saffron), florals (neroli, gardenia, Hedione, geraniol), smoke (cypriol, hydrocarboresin, vetiver) and warm breezes (light woods, musks, resins). It was an Art and Olfaction Awards 2023 Honorable Mention fragrance. Fire and Rain is an eau de parfum, edp.
Cafleurebon: “Cognoscenti No. 44 Fire and Rain is a fascinating journey marked by distinct stages that introduces perceptible aspects of each element with tremendous precision. Rain manifests first, the individual notes that form its familiar smell in soft focus, bringing impression rather than recognition initially. Within a few minutes, it delivers an uncanny recreation of an early spring day, when drizzle patters in calm persistence on flowers just coming into bloom. Geosmin, the chemical compound responsible for the discernable odor of damp ground, dominates those early moments, carrying the remembrance of a thousand April rains. But, as the smell of condensation combines with flowery and fruity scents – I get a faraway gardenia and some droplets orange and grapefruit – smoke rises coldly, like a fire hurriedly extinguished. But then No. 44 Fire and Rain shifts again, and the entire fragrance begins to warm the way sun breaking through rain clouds feels when you turn your face to it. Saffron is a clever choice to elicit heat, while the distinctly woody, rooty smell of cypriol moves forward, parching the more watery odors of the fragrance. I usually think of cypriol as reminiscent of dry wood – the arid smell of our old attic. Its contrast with the showery near sweetness of the opening is the olfactory parallel to coming in after a downpour to a gentle fire in the grate. There a handful of salt in there now, saffron is becoming more noticeable as itself, and the perfume transports itself from vernal garden to the beach at Carmel. An hour after applying it to my wrists, No. 44 Fire and Rain plays on my skin like concerto where key aspects of each element come out in distinctive movements. It takes a while for the floral section to blossom, but gradually the spicy buxomness of gardenia becomes more pronounced, accompanied by a soapy hint of neroli. Hedione, with its hairspray freshness, adds breeziness, and woody notes tumble in like driftwood. The base is resinous – slightly ambery – and earthy, with vetiver making a late debut, smelling of damp root and wet smoke. Later in the day, walking through my neighbourhood, the streets and plants still wistful with rainfall, I am caught by a juxtaposition of far-off smoke, damp leaves that cling to my sandals, and wafts of watercolour flowers. It’s lovely, in the way a happy conclusion to a sad tale is. The sun smiles wanly at my confusion, then, as if noticing the fragrance, comes out and smiles.”
Fragrantica: “mm what a temper! This is ... gothic nature! I have a freshly polished black leather, tons of oak, and later puffs of lavender. The incense, the bitter vetiver that intertwine with the labdanum in a sweet woody amber drydown, but still beautiful ... pissed off! On my skin the finish calms into licorice, immortelle , amber. If you love Prayer by trnp, Hoz by Mallo, Fumidus, Bvlgari leather with no vanillas around ... give it a try!”
Fragrantica: “Fans of Bulgari Black would be well advised to seek this out. It hits the same phenolic-sweet buttons, though its hay, immortelle, and incense accords keep it more in the realm of nature. Fabulous, and has one of the most stunning opening ten minutes in my recent tests.”
Fragrantica: “This fragrance is so beautiful! On paper I liked it quite a lot; on my skin, this goes into the “absolute love” category. Leans a little masculine (for my partner who likes sweeter, flowery scents.) This is green sweet leather. If i were to paint/draw an impression: wash of deep amber with orange and yellow streaks, contrasting with waves of light green, and dark brownish red inked lines threaded through and over... tying those contrasts together. Starts off with the fresh bright green and yellow of hay, quickly followed by a large influx of ambery and sweet almost leather. In time that leather becomes much more prominent. There is this contrasting play of sweet freshness against the leather and warm sweet tones, eventually drying to an incense leather. Those fresh green/yellows pop up repeatedly against the deepening ambery leather. This fragrance is a journey. Occasions to wear: special workday to make a fresh, powerful, creative, but grounded impression on a boss. This is a scent to get a raise or promotion (if your organization is seeking leadership and independence.)
Surprising to me: caution not to overspray.”
Fragrantica:” I have to agree that there isn't much hay in this. It's mostly a leathery incense scent...think the incense that is in Full Incense by Montale. I'm not a fan of Full Incense as it gives me Mr. Clean vibes. While this is a few steps better, I'm still not a fan of it. It is well-done though, and I think fans of Full Incense or Tanoke 7 by Odin will find something to like here. EDIT : After 3-4 hours I am now getting the hay. It seems a mix of hay, immortelle, and vetiver. The resiny incense seems to have faded. A bit surprising given that with most fragrance the opposite is usually true: the green vibe usually fades and the incense remains. I like the dry down a lot.”
