Les Indemodables Immortelle Solaire was released in 2025. Created by Antoine Lie, it is an original take on the sometimes misunderstood and maligned immortelle. Unisex, it has notes of hazelnut, styrax, immortelle and leather.
From the brand - "The essential oil and absolute of immortelle used today by perfumers are difficult ingredients to use and dose, restoring only very imperfectly the olfactory complexity of the plant, with hard and dry facets... not very aesthetic. After 18 months of research, the extract developed by 'l'Atelier Français des Matières' constitutes a true innovation and finally reveals the integral olfactory profile of this plant, faithful to what can be smelled in the field. Antoine LIE - master perfumer - was thus able to integrate this new unique and exclusive ingredient in overdose in the new Opus of the Indémodes: 'Immortelle Solaire'.
This ultra-signed and original creation is thus a play of light and materials: it stages all the complexity of the Immortelle ultrasound 'full spectrum', combining an iodized and luminous accord with facets of licorice and candied fruits, in a subtle balance with darker notes of spices, wood, and slightly smoked leather. It evokes a summer atmosphere, flooded with sunshine, at the very precise moment when the sun at its zenith darts its burning rays on the limestone rock of a Provençal landscape."
Les Indemodables Immortelle Solaire REVIEWS
Fragrantica - "Helycrisum as I have never experienced before. This is really different from any immortelle scents I have. It is very different in wear from what has been considered - up to now - the reference in perfumery for a helycrisum scent, i.e. Sables in the squared bottle and cannot be compared to other perfumes that focus on this flower: Immortelle Corse, The Afternoon of a Faun, Fate Man, Interlude Woman, Fougere Bengale, and 1740. They cannot capture all the facets of helycrisum that Immortelle Solaire does...Overall, the sweetness and the aluminous accord contributes to conjure summertime in full daylight, so I perfeclty get the Solaire in the name; nothing is obscure or dark in this scent.
I love it!"
Fragrantica - "It’s certainly unique in that it’s not that dusty books from the library immortelle I’ve seen a smooth and beautiful immortelle before in Radical Rose Extrait. This immortelle is different though it’s not here to accentuate anything it’s the star of the show. Believe me, for immortelle to be the star is a lot of pressure it’s a tricky ingredient. Immortelle Solaire showcases the beautiful ingredient extracted with their labs tech. It’s got some spices to keep things interesting and then some sweetness while the immortelle is uniquely clean smelling and smooth this is the beauty and 1740 marquis de sade is the beast. Smells green and yellow to me fresh enough for the spring and summer evenings interesting enough for fall and winter days. Could be a signature for someone given it’s uniqueness and versatility you could dress this up or down. One of the best releases of the house."
Fragrantica - "Dark, chocolatey, aromatic amber with thick, rich molasses dominating the opening. Hints of immortelle start to poke through, along with a little jab of sharpness that keeps things interesting. From here it gets smoother and creamier as the liquorice heaviness fades, leaving behind a base that’s herbal, nutty, and ever so lightly smokey leather."
Fragrantica - "The opening of the immortelle is mollases thick and almost as sweet but balanced with a dark aniseed note, it’s rooty and earthy like liquorice. It’s almost gourmand nutty, caramel facets become sort of leathery and more what I know from Immortelle perfumes. his clearly has a thickness and a nod to white florals, perhaps a glug of jasmine? The experience starts to get that characteristic curried note in the drydown, and just gets deeper, warmer, lightly animalic, pissy, tanned leather but oddly floral. I bought this sample in the summertime and I’m not one to say that a certain perfume doesn’t ‘work’ in certain conditions, however I remember thinking… I can’t wear this I’m this heat, it’s such a thick, fisherman’s wooly jumper of a fragrance there’s no way I can appreciate and love it under these circumstances. However, I persevered, I wore it. It was fantastic in the heat, less is more I would say but the heat made it open up."
Fragrantica - "Another banger from Les Indemodables. They consistently find ways to take my money. Licorice and dried fruits are clearly present against the syrupy, dry, herbaceous qualities of immortelle. Leathery, maybe smoky/gritty facet if I put my nose close. The patchouli in the base is quite nice in the drydown. Comes off quite aromatic and sweeter than I was expecting. It isn't TOO sweet though, certainly well balanced compared to other immortelle fragrances that lean into the syrupy qualities of it. Unisex leaning masculine in my opinion. It doesn't instantly remind me of any other fragrance at the moment. MAYBE a hint of Serge Lutens La Proie Pour L'Ombre purely because of the fairly fleeting licorice note I get in the opening."
