Smoke is an aromatic spicy fragrance that launched in 2016. It was created by classically trained British perfumer, Lyn Harris who trained in Paris and Robertet Grasse before starting her career working with many acclaimed brands. She was one of the first female master perfumers to break into the industry. Lyn Harris founded Miller Harris in 2000 as well as founding Perfumer H in 2015. The laboratory and shop of Perfumer H are located in Marylebone, London and here each person is able to see how the perfumer works and experience the working laboratory.
Smoke is the smell of the air after burning wood is fused with damp earth, wild herbs and clean spices to create a masterfully unique amber. It features top notes of Egyptian geranium, cistus and Russian coriander seed with a heart of Moroccan chamomile, Turkish rose and cardamom on a smoldering base of birch tar, agar, Atlas cedarwood and Mysore sandalwood, with warming resins of benzoin and frankincense. Smoke is an eau de parfum, edp.
PERFUMER H SMOKE REVIEWS
Fragrantica: Stunningly beautiful. I tried several Perfumer H fragrances and this was the only one that blew me away. Despite the name it's not very smoky, nor is it overly churchy - just the perfect dose of ambery, resinous frankincense with a touch of spice and floral sweetness. I don't get any oud at all. This price should be enough to put me off, but this is going on my list regardless. Masterpiece!
Fragrantica: Beautiful! This is the best smoky. spicy. woodsy cent I have ever smelled. The smoke here is similar to the type of smoke found in Trudon Revolution (also by Lyn Harris) but is toned down into more like a background incense, which pushes it from being in-your-face annoying to sublime. The woodsiness, the spiciness, and the amberly sweetness intertwined into an incredibly classy scent cloud. The agarwood is the star of this perfume. The scent has aspects of the highest quality agarwood. An image of an ancient wood temple filled with agarwood incense appears in my mind. I smelled this on paper and had to order a FB immediately. A masterpiece if you ask me! UPDATE (05/14/2024): The bottle is here! I now detect notes of earthiness that I did not detect on paper. I also see similarities with Aesop Hwyl. The resinous earthiness is the commonality between the two. While Aesop Hwyl has the green, minty foreground, Perfumer H Smoke has the ambery spicy smoky foreground. They are the same genre but go in different directions. Smoke is a bit more refined and addictive though!
Fragrantica: Very amber and resinous sweet (contrary to what one might expect from the name). It's an incense or benzoin smoke rather than a forest or chimney fire. Very papier d'arménie, to my nose.
Fragrantica: This is my most favourite smell in the world - even moreso than Rosa Mystica at mass. I try to be sparing with this, but I end up wearing it every single day - it's quite spenny, but is most definitely worth it. Whenever I go out, people compliment me on the fragrance; I should be on commission with the amount of people I've directed to Lyn's shop. An incense, amber, woody with a lick of floral, and a lasting impression. Purchasing a bottle from the original shop/workshop in Marylebone, I was made to feel the most important person in the world. I described the kind of scents I liked, and the lovely lady walked me through three or four scents she thought would match me. As with BeardedIris below, I thought it was brilliant on paper, but on my skin it took on an entirely new life!
Fragrantica: Smoke is in the database at last! A sublime incense masterpiece. Opening with dry, bookish woods, musky angelica (should be in the notelist) and benzoin resin, with birch tar smoke and soft, subtle oud rising. The angelica soon fades and a beautiful rounded olibanum emerges sweetened and darkened with camomile and dried rose, like a plume of fresh smoke from a woodland campfire or a temple's incense burner. Extraordinarily beautiful. Stopping you in your tracks. Then gently subsiding again into the aromatic woody notes and spices, the benzoin holding it back from ever becoming too dry. A woody, rosy incense with a lick of leatheriness. I merely liked this on the blotter but I totally swooned for it on skin. I keep the handblown bottle by my bed. Every perfume lover needs to smell this. One of the greats.
